So lovely was the loneliness of a wild lake (Edgar Allan Poe)

Honestly, if you’re the kind of traveler, like us, who want to get away from people, noise and city stress, also like us you might consider the North of the Lake District.

Courtesy of the C(hinese)19 virus, international travel is still fickle and a serious pain in the … Although we would love to jump on a plane and travel to a remote island in the Coral Triangle to dive for that perfect photo of some rarely seen shrimp, that is definitely not going to happen in the next few months. We’ll just have to satisfy ourselves with a nice shrimp cocktail.

Now, you could just keep on whining about that and make life miserable for yourself and all those around you, making them wish you caught the virus last year and became a statistic. Or you could acknowledge that there are so many gorgeous national parks in the UK to visit, hop in your car and just go there!

Let’s be honest, we’re pretty lucky with all the nature around us here. After all, we’ve got shed-loads of the best national parks in the UK that are as varied as they are beautiful. From the oldest national parks like the gorgeous Peak District, the stunning lakes of the Lake District to the Brecon Beacons, The Yorkshire Dales, Snowdonia …

So, once again we jumped in the Red Menace and whizzed off to the next destination on our bucket list : the Lake District. One of those timeless (and protected) places, consisting of around sixteen major lakes dotted all across the region.

I could lie and also say that the Lake District is one of the most relaxing places to visit too. The area can be anything you want it to be. For instance, if you want to spend your whole time hiking the hundreds of trails, climbing the fells or setting sail on the lakes, there’s honestly no lack of that.

But the region can get quite busy also. You see, in the peak of summer (especially during holidays) some of the lakes can get really busy. If you want peace and quiet, take my advice and drive past the Southern Lakes (Windermere, Coniston Water, …) way up North, where you can almost see the Scottish Lochs. Even in June the Southern Lake district is busy, coaches ferrying in entire boroughs of Manchester and Liverpool. And most of the “quaint little villages” are nothing more than overcrowded tourist traps.

But hike up the Northern Fells, walk along the Northern stretch of the Cumbria way, stroll around one of the smaller tarns (small mountain lakes in hollow areas surrounded by steep slopes, formed by a glacier) and you’ll be rewarded by awesome views and unspoiled nature in the company of the ever present UK sheep. On some of our walks we were out on the Fells for several hours, only seeing a handful of other hikers, far away in the distance.

As always though, don’t try this unless you’re an experienced hiker. It’s tough, even in the easiest of parts. The weather can change in a blink, clouds and cold rain coming down on you where minutes ago you were enjoying a dash of spring sunshine. Always wear sturdy shoes, bring warm clothes, water, and carry good maps or walking GPS devices with you.
Unfortunately Sonja’s Achilles tendons were still acting up, so we were not able yet to reach the highest points or do the long hikes we usually do, but it seems to be improving. Fingers crossed.

On this trip we stayed in a remote rental, Crofthead cottage, offering the perfect base for a truly relaxing holiday in the peaceful surroundings of the undiscovered northern Lake District. Situated near Hesket Newmarket, a stone’s throw away from the Cumbria Way, a 112km (70 miles) long distance footpath right through the heart of the Lake District.

Not visible on this shot, but did you know that the ancient Roman roads here in the Lake District were way up on the higher ridges you can see in the background of the photo. The reason: so they didn’t get pelted with rocks by the locals when they were traveling.

The only one of the larger lakes we visited up close and personal is Ullswater. You see, it’s one of the largest, but still has far fewer visitors than Windermere (which is the most popular).
We headed out onto the lake on the historic Ullswater Steamer that has run for well over 100 years. It’s an old industrial steamer that you can now tour the lake on and hop off at different areas. Well, actually, to tell the truth: it’s also total kitsch … and not actually a steamer anymore as they threw out the steam engine and replaced it with a chugging diesel, and actually did I mention already that most of the Lakes are just tourist traps ? 🙂 Don’t go there. Look for the smaller less known lakes or the mountain tarns. Like Bowscale Tarn.

This might be a relatively small lake in the Lake District, but one of those totally serene, in a fantastically remote setting and unspoiled place to explore if you want some time away from the crowds. This high glacial bowl is a hidden scenic corner. According to local boy Wordsworth two immortal fish are living in Bowscale Tarn, and one of them can speak! We only saw a few sheep and they did talk but had a funny accent.
Much of the route is a bridleway, a pony track built for the gentrified Victorians, starting from the hamlet of Bowscale in the parish of Mungrisedale between Keswick and Penrith.

The summit area of Carrock Fell (around 660 m) was once home to an Iron Age fort, the only visible remains are sections of vague wall foundations.

Well known Lake District scribe Alfred Wainwright rated Carrock Fell as the second most exciting and interesting fell in the northern area of Lakeland (after Blencathra and before Skiddaw), it has special appeal regarding geology, mining and history and its rocky nature makes it stand out from the neighboring fells which are mainly grassy and smooth.
Despite all its other attractions, Carrock Fell is primarily the haunt of the fell walker. Which we did and we had gale force wind blowing right in our face all the way up the fell. We were quite literally blown away by the views 🙂

After your hike up to the tarn and the fell, do stop by the 300 year old Quaker Meeting House in the little hamlet of Mosedale. The welcoming Quaker ladies will serve tea, coffee, home made soup and absolutely delicious cake in summer for a ridiculous price.

Catbells is a short, sharp, steep climb richly rewarded by the views of mountains and lakes. A little minor scrambling is required 🙂 alas Sonja didn’t make it to the top so for a change this is the author who shot this photo!
Cat Bells has a modest height of only 451 meters (1,480ft) but it’s a very popular walk as it is near the market-town of Keswick. So don’t expect to be alone but you will get some cracking views on a clear day.
Again a warning: the weather can change quite dramatically as it ably demonstrated whilst on this walk: going from a bit cloudy to full on ice-cold rain in mere moments.

The Lowther Castle ruins are actually rather impressive.

The gardens and castle at Lowther have laid abandoned for 70 years and only opened for the first time again in 2011 since 1938. Lowther Castle has been the family seat of the Earls of Lonsdale from time immemorial, and occupies the site of mansions dating back to the reign of Edward I (1272 – 1307)

The family fortune was undermined by the extravagance of the 5th Earl of Lonsdale, a famous socialite, and the castle was closed in 1937. During the Second World War, it was used by a tank regiment. Its contents were removed in the late 1940s and the roof was removed in 1957.

After the death of the fifth Earl of Lonsdale, the Castle was abandoned, the interior dismantled and only the walls left standing as a memorial to past glories.

The gardens are quite nice too and well worth exploring when on the estate.

Food wise there is not much to report about on this trip. We didn’t really find any place worth a special mention.

Luckily Mark and Joan, our dive buddy from Cardiff and his wife, came to the rescue. They were spending a few days nearby, in Overwater Hall, a splendid luxury hotel (originally built by the Deputy Governor of Jamaica at the beginning of the 19th Century) set in 18 acres of formal gardens and woodland near Ireby also in the Northern Lake area.
And they invited us for supper in the superb hotel restaurant. Exquisite dining ! Thank you again Mark & Joan.