Sitting at home during yet another lockdown, Sonja and I were always planning future adventures and travels, which was something that really helped us stay positive and pull us through those challenging times.
One of the many mini-trips we planned was to the Wye Valley and the Forest of Dean. With our upcoming 40th wedding anniversary (yes it’s been that long!) and being lucky enough to find an almost perfect self-catered cottage in Symonds Yat available for a long weekend, the occasion was too good to miss. Finding a nice cottage in July-August in the UK is hard enough in normal times, but even harder with millions of Brits who would otherwise be annoying the local population in Spain or the South of France now stuck on their island for the holidays.
Watch out! science content 🙂 Winston Churchill once reportedly said that “the only statistics you can trust are the ones you have falsified yourself”. His predecessor as British prime minister in the 19th century, Benjamin Disraeli, allegedly said there were “three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies and statistics”. What do you think about these statistics:
Spectacularly unpopular in Germany (don’t mention the war!). Toxic in Spain, where British tourists are synonymous with lobster-red sunburn, bald heads, tattoos, drunken and loutish behavior and the smell of frying chips. British tourists are disliked even in their native land, where a quarter of those surveyed nominate their fellow countrymen among their least-favorite tribes. Brits also rate low on the self-regard scale. Close to 60 per cent have a negative opinion of British tourists when they’re abroad. Less than a quarter believe foreigners have a positive impression of British tourists.
Snowdrop Cottage
Back to the The Dean Wye then, covering three counties – Gloucestershire, Herefordshire and Monmouthshire – and spanning across England and Wales.
And in Symonds Yat West (Yat is an old English word for gate or gorge), within a stone’s throw from the river we found Snowdrop Cottage, one of the nicest cottages we had the pleasure of spending a few days in during our travels around the UK, owned by the very hospitable and friendly Bridget and Grant. Highly recommended!
The River Wye is the southern end of the border between England and Wales, a political, but also a natural barrier, running down the middle of the river. The river and the high cliffs on either side make this border country an ancient contested area, a land between the kingdoms of Britons and Saxons, soon to become the Welsh national football team and the England national football team 🙂
The river Wye is cutting through the rolling green countryside marking the border between England and Wales. Once in the Wye Valley, finding a particularly nice section for a few hours of canoeing is easy, or stay on dry land (hum, the UK has a lot of rain…) and hike the picturesque valley.
Throughout history, the kings and queens of these two fiercely independent kingdoms dotted the area with castles and the monks (always fast to claim a nice location) with mysterious abbeys, some of which have long since surrendered to ruin.
The River Wye is about 130 miles from the center of Wales to where it meets the sea in the Bristol channel. The Wye Valley, where the valley deepens, is probably the most visited section.
On this stretch, between Ross-on-Wye and Chepstow, you can walk along the footpath of the Wye Trail running right along the banks.
In addition to the Wye Valley Trail, mostly on the Welsh side of the river, walkers also have a trail on the English side, the Offa’s Dyke Trail. This route, roughly running along the 8th century border earthwork, mostly at the high point of the valley side, gives you great views over the river and the surrounding woodlands. But there are plenty of other paths and rights of way through the nearby woods, also linking up with the adjacent Forest of Dean. Have a look at the fantastic OS maps which we use on our ViewRanger app, our trusted digital guide to the outdoors, and you’ll discover a multitude of paths.
Some of the most picturesque settings along the trail are found in the gentle riverside strolls. The areas around Tintern, Symonds Yat (where we stayed) and Hay on Wye are very attractive for hikes. The entire lower valley is designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), straddling England and Wales. But the woodlands were not always the idyllic place they are now. Once the scenes of intense industry, inhabited for at least 12,000 years, they have seen forestry, mining and agriculture. The woodlands used to provide wood for shipbuilding and for charcoal production, though they have now been left to their ways for hundreds of years.
As well as the many woodland paths, walkers can admire the natural crags of Symonds Yat or head down to the striking remains of the 12th century Tintern Abbey.
Roaming Tintern Abbey ruins.
Tintern Abbey is a national icon — still standing in roofless splendor on the Welsh bank of the River Wye, nearly 500 years since its tragic fall from grace.
It was founded in 1131 by Cistercian monks, who were happy to make do with timber buildings at first. A simple stone church and cloisters came later. But then, thanks to the patronage of wealthy Marcher lords, the white-robed monks began to think bigger. In 1269 they began to build a new abbey church and didn’t stop until they’d created one of the masterpieces of British Gothic architecture. The great west front with its seven-lancet window and the soaring arches of the nave still take the breath away.
So grateful were the monks to their powerful patron Roger Bigod that they were still handing out alms on his behalf in 1535. But by then King Henry VIII’s English Reformation was well underway.
And just a year later Tintern Abbey, like so many other abbeys, surrendered in the first round of the dissolution of the monasteries — and the great abbey began slowly to turn into a majestic ruin.
At a tight bend in the River Wye, Symonds Yat Rock is certainly one of the best views in the Wye Valley. See the river from high above the valley floor, meandering through the surrounding countryside with fantastic views far off into the distance. Take the path down to the river again, and you’ll walk past the beautiful chalet featured in the Netflix hit Sex Education. If you stay in Symonds Yat West, walk downriver in the morning about 1,5 miles and cross the river using a popular suspension bridge (which came close to being washed away in 2020 by the floods after storm Dennis) Biblins Bridge is a well-known landmark allowing walkers and cyclists to cross the river near Symonds Yat in the Forest of Dean. You can then walk up to Symonds Yat rock.
Saracen’s Head Inn and the chalet from the Netflix hit Sex Education in the background.
Ye Old Ferrie Inn, which has been on the banks of the River Wye since 1473
It’s crazy how something as simple and relatively normal as having a pint and dinner in a pub can seem like such a huge treat after lockdown.
The Saracen’s Head, directly under Symonds Yat Rock has stood there for centuries and is definitely one of the best locations on the river to stop for a pint of local ale. There’s also the ancient hand ferry which allows you to cross to Symonds Yat West again. The hand ferries exist since Roman times to link the forts of the Doward and the Yat and have served military, civilian, tourist and horse traffic over the centuries.
At least when they are working that is. It seems the ferry at the Saracen’s Head is often closed. As we found out when returning from a 6 mile hike over the Biblins Rope Bridge, going steep uphill to Symonds Yat Rock and back down to the river. We hoped to be able to make the crossing on the hand ferry as from the Saracen’s Head one can see the Snowdrop Cottage just on the other side of the river a mere 100 yards away. Lucky for us and our poor tired feet, there was another working hand ferry a good 500 yards upriver bringing us to yet another historic inn with a great view over the river: the Ye Old Ferrie Inn, which has been on the banks of the River Wye since 1473 already !
Wye Valley Brewery Real Ale… Award-winning, family-owned British brewery of original craft beers
If you love the outdoors and water, you’ll love to spend a few hours canoeing the Wye.
It matters not that you’ve never paddled before, this is no white water rapid adventure but a leisurely 8-mile paddle from Kerne Bridge to Symonds Yat. We rented a canoe from these friendly folks HERE. Very safety minded and excellent, well maintained and good quality equipment.
Following the twists and turns in the river you glide through peaceful, picturesque wildlife-rich countryside. If you’re lucky enough you’re even supposed to spot peregrine falcons soaring above as you pass close to their favorite nesting site, the 500-foot high Yat Rock. We weren’t that lucky. Or see kingfishers sitting on branches scanning the water for small fish. We only saw them whizzing by at 50 miles/hour. I suppose the local wildlife doesn’t appreciate too much us visiting EU diplomats. Don’t mention the Brexit 🙂 Nah, just kidding: we did see plenty of other very beautiful fauna and flora to keep us happy!
We had two dinners “to die for” during our short stay! So a very special mention from our spoiled taste-buds and nothing but glowing recommendations and praise for the award winning Cedar Tree restaurant at Glewstone Court. Do try their Tasting Menu.
And the restaurant at the Orles Barn hotel.
Friendly staff, excellent chefs, comfortable and welcoming (goes also for the pooch!)
Well, to conclude: this was another perfect, beautiful mini trip to the great UK outdoors. Counting down to the next trip, which will in principle bring us, in a few weeks, to the ancient East Anglian County, Suffolk, location of the historical novel and the beautiful movie “The Dig”.
